Trucker's Hitch
Also known as the dolly knot or the wagoner's hitch.
A mechanical advantage hitch for tightening a load. The rope folds back on itself through a loop, giving you roughly three to one purchase. Ideal for tying down a tarp, a kayak, or anything that has to stay still on a moving vehicle.
- CategoryHitch (mechanical advantage)
- StrengthExcellent. Holds heavy loads
- Time to learn15 minutes
- Best forTarps, kayaks, roof racks, ratchet free tie downs
Three to one and you are done.
Use a trucker's hitch any time you need to pull a line drum tight against a load. The midline loop acts as a pulley, the working end runs through it and back, and the friction in the loop holds the tension while you finish off with two half hitches. No ratchet straps required.
Heads up: the loop you make halfway down the rope can lock under heavy load. Use a slipped variant if you want to release with a quick tug.
Anchor, loop, thread, pull, lock.
You will need a rope longer than the distance you are spanning, plus enough at the working end to finish the hitch. About double the gap is a safe rule. Anchor one end to a fixed point, then run the working end over the load to a second anchor.
Anchor the standing end
Tie a bowline or a clove hitch at one end of the rope to the first anchor point. The standing line now runs from this anchor across the load to where the trucker's hitch will be tied.
A bowline is the cleanest start. It will not slip while you put tension on the line.Throw a slip loop in the rope
About a third of the way back from the second anchor, twist a small loop in the standing line and pull a bight of the rope through it to make a slip loop. This loop is your pulley.
For a knot that will release on demand, push the bight through with the loop still slipped. For a more secure version, use a directional figure eight or alpine butterfly here instead.Run the working end around the second anchor
Take the working end of the rope around the second anchor point, ring, or hook. Bring it back toward the slip loop.
A clean, low friction anchor matters. The rope will slide here under tension.Thread the working end through the loop
Pass the working end through the slip loop. The line now runs from the anchor, through the loop, and back toward the anchor again.
You have built a rough block and tackle. The mechanical advantage is roughly three to one because three lines now share the load.Pull to tension
Pull the working end firmly. The loop pulley draws the line tight against the load. Friction in the loop holds the tension while you keep your grip.
If the loop closes under load, that is fine. If it does not, hold the working end with one hand and tie off with the other.Lock with two half hitches
While holding tension on the working end, tie two half hitches around the standing line just below the loop. The hitches lock the system in place.
For a quick release version, finish with a slipped half hitch so a tug on the tail releases the lock.
Field check. Push down on the load. The line should be drum tight and barely give. If the line still has slack, take the load off, slide the slip loop further from the anchor to lengthen the pull, and try again.
Common mistakes
- Anchoring the standing end with a slipping knot. The whole system depends on the anchor holding.
- Making the slip loop too close to the second anchor. There is no leverage left.
- Skipping the lock off hitches. The friction loop alone will creep over time.
- Using stretchy rope. The hitch works best with low stretch line.
How to untie
Take the load off the rope, then untie the two half hitches. Pull the working end back through the slip loop, and shake the slip loop free. After a long, hard load the slip loop can jam. A spike or a stick prises it open.
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